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Career

A Student Finds Her Way To Ballymaloe

Thibault Van de Sompele By Thibault Van de Sompele 2 min read Published

In Short

A young hotel-management graduate goes to learn from Myrtle Allen at Ballymaloe House. She falls in love with the food, the farm and Myrtle's son Tim, and marries him in 1970.

  • Myrtle Allen opened Ballymaloe House as a restaurant in 1964[1].
  • Darina graduated in hotel management in Dublin[2].
  • A tutor advised her to seek out Myrtle, whose menus were built on local produce[3].
  • Tim and Darina Allen married in 1970[3].

The story starts in East Cork, at an old house on a working farm. In 1964 Myrtle Allen opened Ballymaloe House as a restaurant[1]. Her idea was bold for its time. Put local, seasonal food at the centre of everything[1].

Myrtle cooked on an Aga with the help of two local women. Farmers' wives brought their spare blackberries, elderflowers and watercress to the back door[1]. The menu changed with whatever the land gave.

The Allens had bought the estate years earlier and run it as a mixed farm, with dairy, eggs, meat, fruit and vegetables[1]. Myrtle knew her food well and even wrote a cookery column for the Irish Farmers Journal[1].

A Tip From A Tutor

Meanwhile, in Dublin, a young woman was studying hotel management[2]. Her name was Darina. She wanted to cook, and she wanted to learn from someone who really cared about ingredients.

One of her tutors pointed her to Myrtle Allen[3]. Myrtle wrote her menus every day, built around what was fresh and local[3]. For a curious student, it sounded perfect.

On her very first day at Ballymaloe House, Darina met Timmy, the son of Myrtle and Ivan Allen[3]. The two fell in love[3]. It was the start of a partnership in life and in food.

A New Home At Kinoith

Tim and Darina married in 1970[3]. They moved to Kinoith, a Regency house nearby that once belonged to a Quaker family, the Strangmans[3]. Together they brought the old gardens back to life and ran a busy farm shop next to the greenhouses[3].

In the winter months Darina helped Myrtle teach cooking classes at Ballymaloe House[3]. She loved it. Soon she started giving classes of her own, at home in Kinoith[3].

Nobody knew it yet, but those small classes were the seed of something big. The young student from Dublin had found her place, her teacher and her calling[2][3].

Sources

Every fact on this page comes from these sources. Each number in the text points to the source it came from.

  1. Official Ballymaloe House: Our History ballymaloe.ie · consulted
  2. Press Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery: Darina Allen - Oxford Food Symposium · oxfordsymposium.org.uk · consulted
  3. Official Ballymaloe Cookery School: Ballymaloe Cookery School Story ballymaloecookeryschool.ie · consulted